Amazing, amazing trip. I am now on the very last leg, the ferry from Travemunde, Germany to Helsinki, sharing a budget cabin with two German girls. The other one I haven’t much spoken with, though she seems friendly enough, but the other one I chatted with already at the port, and she’s really fascinating young feminist punk girl into hiking. We love the same book shop in Helsinki, so she has good taste too. I also had a long chat with a Finnish dude returning from 4 years of traveling around the globe. Mostly he talked and I interjected something here and there, but obviously he had not been speaking Finnish for a long time and it must have felt so good to him. And, it was quite interesting what he had to say. All those places, in Asia and South America, going from country to country, at times doing random jobs to gather money for a while… and the shock he has experienced returning to Europe, where everything is (according to him) so sterile and new and removed from the reality of existence. He said he’s getting rather depressed due to all the destruction he saw, he thinks it’s all going to shit in thirty years or so, and it’s here in the bubble of prosperity where we don’t see it. I would not know, I’ve only ever been in the bubble of prosperity. He has sort of given up hope, which I personally find… well, what to call it, irresponsible, a cop-out, but I can’t judge other people’s hope or no hope, when I have no strong arguments to offer. At least he’s thinking about where we are headed, unlike so many. But still it makes me think of this quote from one or other Apollo 11 astronauts when they were asked how would they spend their last hour, praying or reading or what, if the rocket engine had died and they had just one hour to live. “I believe I speak for all of us when I say I would spend that hour doing my goddamnest to fix that engine!”
I’ve been on the go just for ten days, but there has been so much to experience each day that it feels like half a lifetime. Cities, meetings, sights, different clouds in different places, so many bus and train and ferry seats - all the sitting has made my ankles swell, the only time previously this happened was when I was pregnant! but generally my body is well suited to traveling, luckily no back or shoulder or hip pains apart from some very minor flashes, I fall asleep in buses in contorted positions and don’t suffer too much from short sleep, my stomach is not easily upset, even if I drink all these cities’ tap water and eat whatever whenever with my hands not always so clean– for this I am truly thankful! Thanks, mom and dad, for passing me your sturdy genes, and inoculating my gut flora with that well water which I drank all my childhood and which was later discovered to have various strains of bacteria :D
So many people I know nearing or just passing forty suffer from ailments that would make extended bus travel super uncomfortable. I just keep my fingers crossed I can go on like this for decades to come.
I am still waiting for the moment that I would feel ready to finish this trip, but nope. I feel home on the road. Apart from wanting to see my kid asap and sorry about too much detail but have sex with my husband, I could turn back right this minute and be gone for another couple of weeks or months or whatever. I like being in transit, between places. I like seeing another city when I wake up. How can I organise more of that in my life without impacting my family in a negative way? I have to think about that.
There was this ultimate between places moment, after passport control at UK border, before the bus went forward to France’s side at the Eurotunnel, between jurisdictions, eveningfall between day and night, and so many other moments I’ll remember; the rush of nearly noon London suddenly after silent early early morning Brussels of huge silent glass-fronted buildings reflecting dawn pink-gold and sleepy Eurostar train (the one that goes under the Channel), oh and the full red august moon over Swedish highway, all the world opening up before me as I sat at the front top seat in Flixbus double decker coach, my regular self and identity melting away, kind of feeling unity with he bus and all the people traveling somewhere with it, and the road, and the moon shining on so many roads with so may passenger buses at the same time, all across the night side of the Earth…